Umeå

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Umeå Travel Guide

Travel Author

Stig Albeck

City Map

City Introduction

Umeå is a northern Swedish city in the Västerbotten region. The city is known from the 14th century, but the nomadic Sami have been in the region before an actual settlement was formed here. Umeå consisted initially of a church and a trading post, which was located on Kyrkbacken a little west of the current city center. For centuries there was trade with the Sami in Umeå, which did not grow significantly, and therefore it lost its privileges in the 1590s.

In 1622, Gustav II Adolf reestablished Umeå, which in 1638 had around 40 houses. However, the small town grew and became the residence city of Västerbotten. Approximately 1,000 people lived in the city in 1800, and this number grew to 3,000 in 1885. In 1888, Umeå was hit by a large fire that left most of the inhabitants homeless, and during the reconstruction, many birch trees were planted, and they can still be seen in the streets.

Today, Umeå is a cozy town located along the northern bank of the river Ume Älv. You can go for some wonderful walks here, starting at, for example, Rådhustorget, where the city’s beautiful city hall from 1891 is located. Here the street Rådhusesplanade ends to the north, which is one of the typical avenues with birch trees. South of the town hall, you can take a walk in the green area of Rådhusparken, around which some of the city’s most stately buildings were constructed after the fire in 1888, and there are also several buildings worth seeing along the street Storgatan.

Umeå has several museums you can visit. At the Västerbottens Museum you can learn more about the cultural history of the city and the region, while you can see various exhibitions of international contemporary art and visual art at the Bildmuseet. At Ume Älv you can take a walk in Döbelns Park, which was laid out in 1865 as the city’s first park and named after General Georg Carl von Döbeln. It was laid out in the English style with gazebos, terraces and winding footpaths. The park was opened on part of the land of the Residence.

The Residence is located east of Döbelns Park og was built in Italian Renaissance style 1891-1894 as an official residence and place of representation for the governor of Västerbotten Län. The governor is the representative of the Swedish government in the county of Västerbotten. At Döblens Park you can also see the beautiful wooden villa, Moritzska Gården, which was built in 1891.

Opposite Döbelns Park you can visit the church Umeå Stads Kyrka, located in the modern center of the city along Ume Älv. The church is a three-nave hall church that was built in neo-Gothic style in 1892-1894 after a fire in the former church on Christmas Eve 1887. From old Umeå you can visit Backen west of the center, where the church Backens Kyrka stands.

Backens Kyrka has been at the place since at least the early 14th century, and in the first centuries it was a wooden church. The current stone church was constructed 1501-1508 as one of the region’s largest churches. Close to Backens Kyrka is Umedalens Skulpturpark, which is a popular place for a walk between different works of art.

Top Attractions

City Hall Square
Rådhustorget

Rådhustorget is the central square in the city centre of Umeå and has been the city’s most important public space since the late 19th century. After the extensive city fire of 1888, the square was redeveloped as part of the new city plan drawn up by architect Fredrik Olaus Lindström. It was placed on the axis between the railway station and the Umeälven, where it formed a connecting line between the city’s new most important buildings. The square’s central location made it a natural centre point in the modernised city, where the streets were planned with greater regularity and fire-prevention distances.

In architectural and urban planning terms, Rådhustorget was designed as a rectangular urban space surrounded by buildings built of brick and plastered facades from the 1890s and early 20th century. The square’s pavement was designed in granite with patterns that emphasised the axis towards the city hall. In the 2010s, the square underwent extensive renovation as part of a larger urban development program for central Umeå. The new design preserved the square’s historical structure, but added, among other things, a granite paving laid in patterns inspired by local textile crafts from Västerbotten. Red maple trees were planted around the square and an avenue was established that connects Rådhustorget with Rådhusparken and Rådhusesplanaden, with the city’s railway station as the northern focal point.

 

Umeå City Hall
Rådhuset

The Umeå Town Hall was built in 1890 as one of the first large representative buildings in the city after the fire of 1888, when the former town hall was destroyed. The building was designed by architect Fredrik Olaus Lindström, who was tasked with creating a monumental building that could symbolize the city’s rebirth and future importance as an administrative center in northern Sweden. The town hall was located facing the Umeälven to mark the connection between the city and river traffic, which continued to play a central role in trade and transport.

The architecture was done in a Dutch neo-Renaissance style, which is characterized by red brick facades, white sandstone details and a distinctive mansard roof. The building’s ground plan is rectangular with a continuous vestibule leading to the staircase and upper offices. Inside, the town hall originally housed the city council’s meeting hall, the magistrate’s offices, a prison and representative rooms. The ground floor was used for public functions, while the upper floor had representative rooms decorated with stucco, parquet floors and painted ceilings.

The town hall was rebuilt and restored several times throughout the 20th century, but the main structure and most of the original details have been preserved. In the mid-20th century, parts of the interior were modernized, and new offices for the municipality and local associations were arranged in the building. After the town hall’s administrative functions were moved to new buildings in the 1970s, the town hall took on a more representative role. Today it is used for conferences, ceremonial events and various cultural events.

 

City Hall Park
Rådhusparken

Rådhusparken is located directly south of Rådhustorget and Umeå City Hall, and it stretches along the northern bank of the Umeälven River. The park was established in 1897 as part of the reconstruction plan for Umeå after the fire of 1888, when the former park area was expanded and adapted to the new city plan. The area where the park is located had previously functioned as a harbor and unloading area for timber cargo, but after the reconstruction was transformed into a city park with promenades, flower beds and a fine view of the river. The park was named after the newly built city hall, which is located to the north of the park.

The design followed the ideals of the time for public parks with symmetrical paths, centrally placed flower beds and avenues of birch and linden. Part of the planting consisted of species adapted to the northern climate, and it was also intended to strengthen the riverbanks against erosion. The park quickly became an important recreational area for the city’s population and was used for Sunday walks, music events and national celebrations. In the early 1900s, a bandstand was built and benches and light poles were installed.

After the mid-1900s, the park gradually changed its character, with a greater focus on recreation and less on formal ornamental garden design. Some of the original paths were rerouted in the 1960s, and new grass areas were introduced to create open spaces. The park underwent restoration in the 1990s, when the vegetation was renewed and the connections to Rådhustorget and the Strandpromenade along the river were improved. Today, Rådhusparken forms a central part of the city’s green structure and functions as a buffer zone between the city center and the riverbank. The park also contains several sculptures and memorials, such as monuments to Umeå’s reconstruction and to the city’s historical mayors.

 

Umeå City Church
Umeå Stads Kyrka

Umeå stads kyrka was inaugurated in 1894, replacing an earlier wooden church that burned down the year before in the city’s great fire. It was built according to drawings by the architect Fredrik Olaus Lindström, who used the neo-Gothic style, which was dominant in Swedish church buildings at that time. The building was made of brick with a high tower, pointed windows and vaults in stone plaster. The ground plan is cruciform, and the height and proportions of the church reflect the desire to mark Umeå as a reborn city after the fire in 1888.

From the beginning, the church’s interior was equipped with pine and spruce woodwork, stucco decorations and stained glass windows in the choir and aisles. The altarpiece was created by the artist Johan Axel Wetterlund in 1894 and depicts the resurrection of Jesus. The organ was delivered by Åkerman & Lund Orgelbyggeri in 1895 and included 24 stops. In 1937, the church was rebuilt, where, among other things, the choir was expanded. Today, the church serves as the headquarters of the Swedish Church in Umeå and is used for services, concerts and ceremonies.

 

Backens Church
Backens Kyrka

Backens Kyrka is the oldest surviving church building in the Umeå area. It was built between 1501 and 1508, a time when Norrland was still sparsely populated and without any real urban centers. The church was built of granite and boulders and represents late medieval Swedish church architecture with a rectangular nave. The roof was originally covered with wood, which was later replaced with copper plates. The church’s location on the Umeälven made it easily accessible to the parish population, who largely came by boat to church services.

In the 18th century, the church was restored, and the interior was given Baroque features. The altarpiece was made in the 1720s, and the pulpit was added in 1746. In 1893, the church was hit by a major fire, which destroyed the roof and furnishings, but the walls remained standing and formed the basis for the reconstruction. It was again hit by fire in 1986, after which the old interior was reconstructed with respect for the original expression.

The cemetery surrounding the building contains graves from the 17th century onwards, making the site an important source for local history research. The rectory, located on a hill above the church, was built in the 19th century and today serves as a meeting and assembly room for the congregation.

 

Storgatan

Storgatan is Umeå’s oldest and longest continuous street. It was built in the early 17th century, when Umeå was granted market town privileges, and from the beginning it was the most important trade and transport axis through the city. The street originally ran parallel to the Umeälven and served as a connecting road between the harbor, the market square and the early residential areas. After the city fire in 1888, Storgatan was rebuilt according to the new city plan with a wider profile and straight lines to improve fire safety and accessibility in the city. It was given a standard width of 24 meters, and many of the buildings were built in brick in accordance with the new building regulations.

In the southern part of Storgatan, the city’s representative public buildings were built, such as the town hall, the post office and several bank mansions in the neo-Renaissance and Art Nouveau styles. To the north, the street developed into a commercial district with shops, hotels and craft businesses. The buildings along Storgatan were built by local craftsmen in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, often three-storey with shops on the ground floor and apartments above. Many of the original properties were later replaced or rebuilt in the functionalist style in the 1930s and 1950s. However, a few historic facades have been preserved, and these can be seen especially near Rådhustorget.

 

Västerbotten Museum

Västerbotten Museum was founded in 1886 as a regional cultural history museum to document and preserve the culture of Västerbotten County. It had its first permanent exhibition in 1909 and was later moved to its current location in Gammlia, northeast of Umeå city centre. The museum houses both permanent and changing exhibitions, and in connection with this there is an area with an open-air museum. There are also collections in archaeology, ethnology, local history and art.

You can of course explore the region’s culture and history, and the Gammlia open-air museum contains more than 30 relocated buildings from various places in Västerbotten. On a tour here, you can see farms, barns, churches and a Sami theatre. The facility was built from the 1920s as an educational landscape that shows regional building customs and ways of life from the 18th and 19th centuries.

 

Döbelns Park

Döbelns Park is a green area that was created in the 1860s, making it the oldest public park in Umeå. The park was named after General Georg Carl von Döbeln, who led Swedish troops during the war against Russia in 1809. The park was located between Storgatan and Östra Strandgatan as part of the early urban development of Umeå. The area, which had previously been meadows and fields, was transformed into a recreational urban space with a system of paths and tree plantings in the style of the time.

After the city fire of 1888, Döbeln’s Park was replanted and expanded as part of the reconstruction of the city’s green structure. It was designed according to the model of contemporary Swedish city parks with a star-shaped path system, central lawn and monuments. In the middle of the park, a bronze bust of General Döbeln was erected in 1867, and several memorials were later added. In the 1990s, Döbeln’s Park was restored to recreate the original structure. New footpaths and lighting were established, and the planting was renewed with species such as linden and maple.

 

The Residence
Residenset

The Residence in Umeå is a building that serves as the residence and representative building for the Governor of Västerbotten County. The building was built in 1894, after the previous residence was destroyed in a fire in 1888. The new building was designed by architect Carl Fredrik Ekholm, who began work in 1891, but after his death the same year the project was completed by architect Ludwig Peterson. The residence was located on Storgatan with a facade facing the Umeälven to mark the building’s role as a symbol of the County Administrative Board’s and the state’s presence in northern Sweden.

The building was built in two floors of stone on a high plinth of natural stone. The architectural design is characterized by 19th-century classicism combined with some features from the neo-Renaissance. The facade was built symmetrically, and from the beginning the interior was furnished with a residence for the county governor on the upper floor and representative rooms with salons, dining rooms and guest rooms. The lower floor housed offices and meeting rooms for the County Administrative Board’s administration. The building was among the first in Umeå to have electric lighting and central heating, which was a technological innovation in Norrland in the 1890s.

In 1935, the Residence was expanded with two side wings based on designs by architect Denis Sundberg. The extensions were made in the same material and style as the main building in order to preserve the overall impression. In the mid-20th century, the interior underwent modernization, during which several original details were lost. In 2013–2016, the building was restored under the leadership of the Swedish National Property Administration, with a focus on restoring the facade’s original expression.

 

Moritz Estate
Moritzska Gården

Moritzska Gården is a house that was built in 1891 as a residence and office for the manager Carl Gustav Moritz, who owned Sandviks Ångsågs AB. The architect was Carl Fridolf Engelbert Sandgren. The manor belongs to the larger and more ornate wooden buildings that were erected after the great fire in Umeå in 1888, and it represents a special quality in the combination of wooden architecture and decorative styles. The original location was at Rådhusesplanaden, but the building was moved in 1983 to its current address at Östra Kyrkogatan 2 in central Umeå.

The architecture shows a mixture of style elements with features from the Neo-Renaissance, Neo-Baroque and Art Nouveau. The facade is clad with wooden panels, the windows are mullioned windows, and the roof is covered with gray sheets. A characteristic feature is the southern central section with a loggia. Stylistically and in terms of form, all these details create a mansion-like feel, which makes the farm atypical in comparison to other wooden houses from the same period.

Moritzska Gården was bequeathed by Moritz to the city of Umeå in 1897. In the 1980s, the issue of preservation and relocation became relevant, and when it was moved in 1983, it was as part of a cultural environmental effort to ensure the building’s survival. Restoration work was also carried out to recreate original details and preserve the building’s architectural character.

 

Ume Valley Sculpture Park
Umedalens Skulpturpark

Umedalens Skulpturpark is located in the Umedalen district west of the city center and is a significant outdoor art area. The park was established in 1994 on the initiative of Galleri Andersson/Sandström in collaboration with the property company Balticgruppen, which owned the former hospital area Umedalens Sjukhus. The aim was to use the former institutional area for cultural purposes and at the same time create a publicly accessible art environment. Since its opening, the park has gradually been expanded with permanent works from international and Swedish artists, and it has developed into a central part of Umeå’s modern cultural profile.

The park contains over 40 permanent sculptures located in the old hospital area, which consists of buildings from the late 19th century surrounded by large green areas. Artists include Antony Gormley, Tony Cragg, Anish Kapoor, Louise Bourgeois, Jaume Plensa and Eva Hild. The works are made of materials such as granite, steel, bronze and glass and are part of an open landscape with lawns, paths and preserved hospital buildings. The combination of the historical institutional architecture and modern art creates a unique cultural environment where the old and the new stand side by side.

Umedalens Skulpturpark functions as a permanent exhibition, but temporary exhibitions and art projects are also arranged. Since its establishment, the park has been open all year round and receives thousands of visitors annually. It is run in collaboration between Galleri Andersson/Sandström, Balticgruppen and Umeå Municipality. The area has also been the starting point for urban development in Umedalen, where the former hospital buildings have been converted into schools, offices and homes.

Other Attractions

Day Trips

Luleå

Luleå is one of the largest cities in northern Sweden. It is known historically from 1327, when there was a village at the place of present day Gammelstad. The village got a church and a marketplace, and this led to the founding of Luleå by Gustav II Adolf with market town rights in 1621. In 1649, the town was moved to its current location, which happened because the harbor had proven too shallow. However, Luleå was ravaged by fires several times, but it grew slowly through the centuries.

In the middle of the 19th century, there were only approximately 1,400 inhabitants in Luleå. In 1887, large parts of the city were ravaged by a fire, but at the end of the century the railway Malmbanen opened between Gällivare and Luleå, which thereby became a shipping port for iron ore. Hand in hand with general industrialization it created great prosperity in the town, and a spacious urban plan was designed after the 1887 fire with a lot of new construction.

More about Luleå

 

High Coast
Höga Kusten

The High Coast or Höga Kusten is an area located in northern Ångermanland in Västernorrland County, stretching for about 130 kilometers between the cities of Härnösand and Örnsköldsvik. The area is internationally known for its unique geology and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. The landscape was shaped by the uplift after the last ice age. The land here has risen over 286 meters since the ice disappeared, which is unique in the world. The result is a dramatic meeting of deep fjords, steep cliffs and forested ridges. The uplift continues today at about 8 millimeters per year, and the area thus provides a unique insight into nature’s geological processes over time.

The most characteristic part of the landscape is found around Skuleberget, where the cliff rises almost 300 meters directly from the sea and offers panoramic views of the Ångermanland coast. At the top lies Skule National Park, which was established in 1989 to preserve the distinctive coastal landscape. The national park contains both old natural forests, cliffs, limestone areas and rare plant species that thrive in the nutrient-rich soil. There are marked hiking trails in the area, including parts of the Höga Kusten Trail, which is a 128-kilometer-long hiking trail that runs from Hornöberget in the south to Örnsköldsvik in the north. The route crosses mountains, forests, sea cliffs and cultivated fields and is one of Sweden’s most varied and well-maintained hikes.

The Höga Kusten offers a wide range of nature and outdoor experiences all year round. In the summer, you can sail between Norrfällsviken, Ulvön and Trysunda. These are small island communities with preserved fishing ports, red wooden houses and remnants of older coastal culture. Sea kayaking, climbing and cycling are widespread activities, and many visitors combine nature with visits to local farms, smokehouses and working workshops. In winter, you can enjoy snowshoeing, ice climbing and skiing in smaller facilities such as Skulebacken.

In addition to the raw nature, the High Coast also has a rich cultural and adventure life. At the foot of Skuleberget is Naturum Höga Kusten. It is a modern visitor center that conveys the geology, flora, fauna and cultural history of the area through interactive exhibitions. In the summer months, the Skulefestivalen is held, a music festival that attracts visitors from all over Norrland. Around the towns of Härnösand, Kramfors and Örnsköldsvik there are also museums, art galleries and historical sites that tell the story of the coast’s fishing, forestry and shipping.

 

Sundsvall

Sundsvall is a city in Västernorrlands Län. It was granted temporary market town rights in 1621, and these were formally approved in 1624. The town was named after grasslands at the site of Sund, but for the first decades it was located at Åkroken west of the present center. Queen Kristina moved the town in 1648 to give it a better port.

Over time, Sundsvall developed from a fishing community into an important industrial town, and it became one of the country’s centers for the economically important forest industry. In 1888, one of Sweden’s biggest city fires hit Sundsvall, and they chose to rebuild the city in stone, which has given Sundsvall the nickname Stone City.

More about Sundsvall

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Travel Expert

Stig Albeck

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